Dehydrated skin. What is it and how to treat it.

Dryness and dehydration are sometimes used interchangeably in the skincare world yet they truly are separate issues. Have you ever noticed your skin feel tight with scattered fine lines looking more pronounced when the indoor heaters kick on? If so, you may try to remedy this by slathering on rich creams or facial oils only to discover that within a few days your skin has started breaking out in response.  As unfair as this bipolar skin issue can feel, the core problem could be that you are treating your skin as if it is dry when in fact it is dehydrated.

What’s the difference? You ask.

Dehydrated Skin lacks water in the upper layers of the epidermis while Dry Skin lacks oil. Dehydration is a SKIN CONDITION (i.e.the issue can come and go) where dry skin is a SKIN TYPE (meaning baby you were born this way). To make matters more complicated it is possible for acne-prone skin to become dehydrated, and often times that IS the case especially if that person is using strong, oil stripping skin care products to fight the acne. The body can easily make more oil, but it cannot replenish lost water on its own so it needs a bit of topical help to rebalance.

A dehydrated skin prefers a light syrupy textured serum, water-based gel or essence containing hydrating ingredients. A moisture cream would next be applied on top. You need this lighter textured product (serum, gel or essence) to quench the skin’s thirst before applying a protective barrier in the form of a light cream. Without the liquid or gel texture applied first, a cream just sits like frosting on top of the parched skin (basically doing nothing more than making you look greasy) rather than effectively penetrating to condition and protect the skin. When the skin is properly hydrated it readily accepts active ingredients and additional moisture. All of your skin care products will work more effectively on a base of hydrated skin.

Applying only a rich moisture cream over dehydrated skin can lead to breakouts since the cream, unable to penetrate through the dehydration, sits on top like a film while your own natural oil gets trapped beneath it. This can lead to clogged pores and frustrating breakouts. Healthy skin has a natural balance of both oil and water. Too much of either stresses the skin causing sensitivity, clogged pores, and visible irritation

How can skin become dehydrated?

Hot showers, steam rooms, drinking too little water, consuming too much caffeine and/or alcohol (both are diuretics), medications, illness, indoor heat, extreme temperatures, over-cleansing with oil stripping skin care products, and over exfoliating to name a few.

A dehydrated skin prefers a light syrupy textured serum, water based gel or essence containing hydrating ingredients. A moisture cream would next be applied on top. You need this lighter textured product (serum, gel or essence) to quench the skin’s thirst before applying a protective barrier in the form of a light cream. Without the liquid or gel texture applied first, a cream just sits like frosting on top of the parched skin (basically doing nothing more than making you look greasy) rather than effectively penetrating to condition and protect the skin. When the skin is properly hydrated it readily accepts active ingredients and additional moisture. All of your skin care products will work more effectively on a base of hydrated skin.

Applying only a rich moisture cream over dehydrated skin can lead to breakouts since the cream, unable to penetrate through the dehydration, sits on top like a film while your own natural oil gets trapped beneath it. This can lead to clogged pores and frustrating breakouts. Healthy skin has a natural balance of both oil and water. Too much of either stresses the skin causing sensitivity, clogged pores and visible irritation

Should dehydrated be skin treated differently depending on the season?

Absolutely. If you notice your skin is looking dehydrated I always suggest taking a look at the weather outside before deciding how to treat it. Is it on the warmer side or is it a bitter cold winter day? Is it humid or dry? When the skin becomes dehydrated it does not like to be over-layered with too much product. If it is a warmish fall day, you will do best with a hydrating essence, a gel or a serum. Top this with a moisturizing sunscreen or a light moisturizer. That’s it!

Only if it is getting very cold outside will you swap out your light moisturizer for a richer cream. Your hydrating gel should be doing its job by quenching your skin’s thirst i.e. treating the dehydration. The cream is a protectant and an opportunity to add more yummy active ingredients onto your skin such as vitamin C, ceramides and peptides.

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